This last Saturday I competed in my first SCS comp of the season! I ended up in third place :). All of the routes I climbed were amazing! I’m really glad that the comp was held at my home gym, lots of new routes to project!
The comp was a redpoint format, you could give the lead routes up to five tries. And you could give the boulder problems up to 10 tries. There were 30 different routes/problems to try. All were at different levels and completely different climbs. My favorite route was a 11D on the easy lead wall. It had all sorts of different holds, crimps, a pinch or two, even a couple jugs on the way up. They had routes from 5.9 all the way up to 5.13!
Of course as soon as I walked into the gym, the boulder problems caught my eye. None of the problems were terribly difficult. I think the hardest problem was a V6. I wasn’t able to send it at the comp, but the next day I sent it in the second try. The first lead route I want to say was a 10D. The whole route consisted of pockets and crimps, my two favorite holds :). The route had a really fun flow to it, and was a great warm-up. The second route I got on was also a 10D but it was on toprope. I had been eyeing it the before the comp started. It consisted of all tiny DRCC crimps. I loved the sequence! It even gave me a little arm pump toward the top of the route! The third route I got on was a 10D also on the easy lead wall. It was jugs all the way up, it was a really fun route. I messed up the sequence half way through, it became a little awkward. After the 10D I hopped on a really fun 11a just to the right of the route. It had a really cool stemming sequence in a dihedral. The route was a lot of jugs, but also a few pinches. I am not sure what the grade of the route was, I want to say 10D or 11a, but the next route I got on was on the bubbles! The route only consisted of great jugs! My lack of endurance was definitely showing by the roof section of the route. The last route I got on was a 12a, it was very pumpy and consisted of small crimps all the way up. It was the only route I was not able to onsight.
Unfortunately the next comp, which is in Columbus, Ohio, is on my sisters’ birthday so I will not be able to attend. The first comp was a blast, and I can’t wait for the next!